Which Facial Treatment Works Best for My Acne? A Dermatologist’s Guide

Facials are often associated with relaxation and pampering, but when you’re dealing with acne, the right facial treatment can actually become a critical part of your skincare routine. The right professional treatment can help clear your skin, reduce inflammation, and improve your overall complexion. But with so many different types of facials available, how do you know which one is right for your acne?

As a board-certified dermatologist, I’m here to help you navigate the options so you can choose the best facial treatment for your acne. Let's break it down.

What to Consider Before Getting a Facial for Acne

Before booking a facial, there are a few important factors to keep in mind:

1. Your skin type: Is your skin oily, dry, or combination? Each skin type may react differently to various facials.
2. The type of acne you have: Acne can range from blackheads and whiteheads to cystic or hormonal breakouts. The facial treatment that works for one type may not be effective for another.
3. Skin sensitivity: If your skin is sensitive or prone to irritation, avoid aggressive treatments that may damage the skin barrier.

1. The Classic Deep Cleansing Facial

The deep cleansing facial is often the first step in treating acne-prone skin. This facial focuses on removing clogged pores and dead skin cells through gentle exfoliation and extraction. The treatment is typically ideal for those with mild to moderate acne.

How it works:

1. Cleansing: Removes dirt, oil, and makeup buildup.
2. Exfoliation: Mild exfoliating acids or physical scrubs slough off dead skin.
3. Extraction: Manual extractions of blackheads and whiteheads.

Best for:

1. Non-inflammatory acne (blackheads, whiteheads)
2. Oily or combination skin types

2. Chemical Peels for Acne

A chemical peel involves applying a solution of acids (such as glycolic acid, salicylic acid, or lactic acid) to the skin to exfoliate and help clear clogged pores. Chemical peels are ideal for treating mild to moderate acne, particularly when you have post-acne marks or pigmentation (PIH).

How it works:

1. Acid solutions are applied to the skin to penetrate and exfoliate the outer layers.
2. Stimulates cell turnover, helping prevent clogged pores and reducing acne scars.

Best for:

1. Active acne (blackheads, whiteheads, and papules)
2. Acne scars (hyperpigmentation)
3. Oily or combination skin types

Also read: Is Glycolic Acid Good for Acne? A Dermatologist Breaks It Down

3. LED Light Therapy Facial

LED light therapy facials use different wavelengths of light to target acne bacteria and reduce inflammation. Blue light is often used to target the bacteria responsible for acne, while red light helps reduce inflammation and promote healing.

How it works:

1. Blue light penetrates the skin to kill acne-causing bacteria (P. acnes).
2. Red light helps calm inflammation and supports healing.

Best for:

1. Cystic acne (painful, inflamed pimples)
2. Sensitive skin types that need gentle treatment
3. Post-inflammatory redness (inflammation after breakouts)

4. Microdermabrasion

Microdermabrasion is a non-invasive procedure that uses tiny exfoliating crystals to slough off dead skin and promote smoother, clearer skin. It’s ideal for mild acne and post-acne scars, especially for those looking for a deep exfoliation.

How it works:

1. Mechanical exfoliation using fine crystals removes the outer layer of dead skin cells, improving texture and clarity.
2. Boosts collagen production, which helps improve the appearance of acne scars.

Best for:

1. Mild to moderate acne
2. Acne scars (light scars, hyperpigmentation)
3. Rough or textured skin

5. Hydrafacial

The Hydrafacial is a popular treatment that combines hydration with exfoliation and extraction. It uses a multi-step process to cleanse, exfoliate, and hydrate the skin while extracting debris from clogged pores. It’s a great option for acne-prone skin that’s also dry or sensitive.

How it works:

1. Hydration is infused deep into the skin while exfoliating the outer layer.
2. Extractions are performed to clear clogged pores.
3. Antioxidants and peptides are delivered for skin healing and protection.

Best for:

1. Dry or sensitive acne-prone skin
2. Acne with dry patches or dehydration
3. Mild to moderate acne

6. Oxygen Facials

Oxygen facials deliver oxygen to the skin’s surface, which may help in the treatment of acne by promoting healing and skin rejuvenation. These facials are often combined with serums that hydrate and clear the skin.

How it works:

1. Oxygen is delivered directly to the skin to rejuvenate and promote cellular repair.
2. Hydrating serums help reduce inflammation and promote clearer skin.

Best for:

1. Cystic acne and inflammatory acne
2. Sensitive or dry skin
3. Acne scars and hyperpigmentation

Also read: How to Treat Acne When You Have Dry Skin: A Dermatologist’s Guide

Facials to Avoid if You Have Acne

While facials can be extremely helpful for acne, there are a few treatments you should avoid if you’re dealing with active breakouts:

1. Strong enzymatic peels: These can be too harsh and may irritate sensitive, acne-prone skin.
2. Aggressive extractions: Overly aggressive extractions can lead to scarring or worsen breakouts.
3. Microcurrent facials: These may irritate skin with active acne, especially cystic acne.

Final Thoughts: Tailor Your Facial to Your Skin

When it comes to choosing a facial for acne, the key is to select the right treatment based on your acne type, skin concerns, and skin type. Working with a licensed esthetician or dermatologist is crucial to ensure you’re choosing the safest and most effective facial for your needs.

Remember, facials are just one piece of the puzzle. Pairing them with a consistent skincare routine at home that includes the right acne treatments will give you the best results.