How to Treat Acne When You Have Dry Skin: A Dermatologist’s Guide

Treating acne can be tricky—but treating acne and dry skin at the same time? That’s a real challenge. Most traditional acne treatments are designed for oily or combination skin, often drying out the skin in an effort to stop breakouts. But when your skin is already dry, this approach can do more harm than good, leading to flaking, irritation, and a damaged skin barrier.

As a board-certified dermatologist, I frequently work with patients who experience this exact issue. The good news? You can treat acne without drying out your skin—you just need the right products, a gentle routine, and a bit of balance.

Why Dry Skin Gets Acne Too

Many people assume acne only happens to oily skin types, but that’s not the case. Dry skin can still develop:

1. Clogged pores from dead skin buildup
2. Inflammation from a compromised skin barrier
3. Hormonal triggers or internal causes unrelated to oil

Dry skin that becomes irritated or inflamed is still at risk for breakouts—especially if you’re using overly harsh products to “clear” your skin.

Step 1: Cleanse Gently (No Stripping)

Choose a cleanser that removes dirt and impurities without leaving your skin feeling tight or squeaky.

✅ Look for:

1. Cream or gel-based cleansers
2. Fragrance-free, sulfate-free formulas
3. Hydrating ingredients like ceramides or hyaluronic acid

Recommended:

1. CeraVe Hydrating Cleanser
2. La Roche-Posay Toleriane Hydrating Gentle Cleanser
3. Avene Extremely Gentle Cleanser Lotion

❌ Avoid: Foaming or alcohol-based cleansers, which strip natural oils.

Step 2: Moisturize Like It’s a Treatment

Moisturizing is non-negotiable if you have dry, acne-prone skin. Hydration supports your skin’s barrier, which keeps inflammation (and acne) in check.

✅ Look for:

1. Non-comedogenic moisturizers
2. Ingredients like glycerin, squalane, ceramides, and niacinamide
3. Rich but breathable textures

Recommended:

1. Neutrogena Hydro Boost Gel Cream (Fragrance-Free)
2. CeraVe Moisturizing Cream
3. Vanicream Daily Facial Moisturizer

Pro tip: Apply moisturizer immediately after cleansing while your skin is still damp for better absorption.

Also read: Acne Treatment Options for Black Skin: What Dermatologists Recommend

Step 3: Use Acne Treatments That Work with Dry Skin

Here’s where things get tricky. Many acne actives are drying by nature, but when formulated correctly or used strategically, they can still be effective for dry skin types.

✅ Best acne-fighting ingredients for dry skin:

1. Azelaic Acid
2. Gently treats acne and fades dark spots
3. Anti-inflammatory and safe for sensitive skin
4. Recommended: The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%, Finacea (Rx)

1. Adapalene (Differin)
2. A mild retinoid that increases cell turnover
3. Less irritating than tretinoin
4. Start with 2–3x/week and follow with a thick moisturizer

1. Niacinamide
2. Soothes inflammation, reduces redness, balances oil
3. Hydrating and compatible with other actives
4. Try: The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%, Naturium Niacinamide Serum

1. Sulfur-Based Spot Treatments
2. Targets pimples without excessive drying
3. Try: Kate Somerville EradiKate, AcneFree Therapeutic Sulfur Mask

❌ Avoid high-percentage benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid without dermatologist guidance. These can worsen dryness if not buffered by hydrating agents.

Step 4: Exfoliate Smartly (and Sparingly)

Exfoliation is key for unclogging pores, but physical scrubs and harsh peels are a no-go for dry skin.

✅ Use a low-strength AHA (like lactic acid) once or twice a week.

✅ Consider PHA (polyhydroxy acids) as a gentler alternative.

Recommended:

1. The Inkey List Lactic Acid
2. Glow Recipe PHA + BHA Pore-Tight Toner

Step 5: Don’t Skip Sunscreen

Sun exposure worsens acne scars and dries out the skin even more.

✅ Choose a moisturizing SPF 30+ with added skincare benefits.

✅ Opt for mineral sunscreens if you're reactive.

Recommended:

1. EltaMD UV Daily Broad-Spectrum SPF 40
2. La Roche-Posay Anthelios Melt-in Milk SPF 60
3. Black Girl Sunscreen SPF 30

Also read: Is Glycolic Acid Good for Acne? A Dermatologist Breaks It Down

Bonus Tips from a Dermatologist:

1. Introduce actives one at a time. Let your skin adjust and avoid overloading your barrier.
2. Patch test new products, especially if your skin is reactive.
3. Stick to a consistent routine for at least 4–6 weeks before judging results.
4. Consider prescription options like topical antibiotics or tretinoin if OTC products aren’t helping.

Final Thoughts: Balance Is Key

Treating acne on dry skin requires a delicate balance—clearing breakouts without over-drying the skin. With the right hydrating base and carefully selected acne treatments, you can achieve clear skin that feels comfortable, not compromised.

Remember: If you’re unsure where to start or your skin isn’t improving, a visit to a dermatologist can help you customize a routine that treats acne effectively and supports your skin barrier.