Acne isn’t a one-size-fits-all condition. That’s why what works for one person might not work for another. Understanding what type of acne you have is the first step to finding the right treatment. As a board-certified dermatologist, I’ve helped thousands of patients navigate their acne journeys—and today, I’m sharing the most effective, evidence-backed solutions for the most common acne types.
1. Blackheads (Open Comedones)
What it is:
Blackheads are clogged pores filled with dead skin and oil that oxidize when exposed to air, turning them dark in color.
Best Treatments:
- Salicylic Acid: Penetrates and exfoliates inside the pores (e.g., Paula’s Choice 2% BHA Liquid).
- Retinoids: Help normalize skin cell turnover to prevent clogged pores (Differin Gel is a great OTC option).
- Clay Masks: Absorb oil and unclog pores (try Aztec Secret Indian Healing Clay).
2. Whiteheads (Closed Comedones)
What it is:
Like blackheads, but the pore remains closed, trapping oil and skin cells beneath the surface.
Best Treatments:
- Salicylic Acid & Glycolic Acid: Gentle exfoliation helps keep pores clear.
- Topical Retinoids: Help the skin shed dead cells more efficiently.
- Non-comedogenic Skincare: Prevents new whiteheads from forming.
Also read: Can I Use Toothpaste on Pimples? A Dermatologist Explains Why You Should Think
3. Papules and Pustules (Inflammatory Acne)
What it is:
These are red, swollen pimples—papules don’t have pus, while pustules do. Both indicate inflammation and bacterial involvement.
Best Treatments:
- Benzoyl Peroxide: Kills acne-causing bacteria and reduces inflammation (e.g., PanOxyl 4%-10%).
- Topical Antibiotics: Like clindamycin or erythromycin (prescription-based).
- Niacinamide: Calms redness and helps regulate oil production.
4. Cystic Acne
What it is:
Painful, large, pus-filled breakouts deep under the skin. This type is most likely to cause scarring.
Best Treatments:
- Oral Medications: Such as isotretinoin (Accutane) or oral antibiotics under medical supervision.
- Cortisone Injections: For fast relief from painful cysts.
- Topical Retinoids + Benzoyl Peroxide (dual therapy).
- Light Therapy: Blue light can reduce inflammation and kill bacteria.
5. Nodular Acne
What it is:
Similar to cystic acne, but typically more solid and without pus. These nodules can last weeks and are often painful.
Best Treatments:
- Prescription Retinoids: Like tretinoin or adapalene.
- Oral Antibiotics or Hormonal Therapy: Especially for long-term nodular flare-ups.
- Combination Therapy: Benzoyl peroxide + antibiotic + retinoid for a multi-targeted approach.
6. Hormonal Acne
What it is:
Breakouts typically along the jawline, chin, and cheeks, often worsening around the menstrual cycle.
Best Treatments:
- Spironolactone (for women): Blocks androgen hormones that trigger oil production.
- Birth Control Pills: Certain types regulate hormone levels and reduce acne.
- Topical Retinoids + Benzoyl Peroxide: Help manage surface-level symptoms.
7. Fungal Acne (Malassezia Folliculitis)
What it is:
Often misdiagnosed as traditional acne. Caused by yeast overgrowth, not bacteria.
Best Treatments:
- Antifungal Washes: Like Nizoral (ketoconazole) shampoo used as a body wash.
- Avoid Heavy Oils: They feed the yeast and can worsen the condition.
- Light Exfoliation + Probiotics: Helps rebalance the skin microbiome.
Also read: Salicylic Acid vs. Benzoyl Peroxide: Which Acne Fighter Should You Choose?
Dermatologist Tips for All Acne Types
- Stick to a routine for at least 6-8 weeks before judging results.
- Avoid picking or popping—this can lead to scarring and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
- Always wear SPF 30+, especially when using retinoids or acids.
- Look for non-comedogenic, fragrance-free formulas.
- Hydrate your skin, even if you have oily or acne-prone skin.
When to See a Dermatologist
If OTC products aren’t working or if you’re dealing with moderate to severe acne (especially nodules, cysts, or scarring), consult a dermatologist. You may need prescription-strength treatments, hormonal therapy, or in-office procedures like chemical peels, extractions, or laser therapy.
Final Thoughts: Tailor Your Treatment to Your Acne Type
The most effective acne treatments are targeted. By identifying the type of acne you have and using ingredients that work specifically for that type, you can treat it smarter—not harder.
Still unsure which type of acne you’re dealing with? I can help you build a custom routine or compare product options based on your skin’s unique needs.